Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (2024)

Table of Contents
How We’ll Rank The Brands Rankings – 1. Ace Marks (B- | $259-$350, Tramonto Patina: $425) 2. Allen Edmonds (C | ($195-$424, Cordovan: $700+) 3. Armin Oehler (C | $495) 4. Aurélien (B | $270-$535) 5. Barker (C- | London: $395-$455, BOEB: $485-$570) 6. Beckett Simonon (D | $219) 7. Bridlen (B+ | $243-$297, Blake: $88-$115, Unlined: $109-$243, Slip-On: $109-$303, Easy Goodyear: $194, Founders: $303) 8. Bruno Magli (C- | $199-$675, Collezione: $550-$800) 9. Carlos Santos (B+ | $295-$380) 10. Carmina (B | $395-$685, Cordovan: $800+, Exotics: $1000+) 11. Charles Tyrwhitt (C- | $199-$349) 12. CNES (A- | $142-$423, Cordovan: $750+, Exotics: $1500+) 13. Cobbler Union (B | Goodyear Lite: $360-$450, Goodyear-Welted: $385-$475) 14. Cole Haan (F | $159-$400) 15. Florsheim (D- | $115-$250) 16. Grant Stone (B | $282-$340) 17. Herring (C+ | Classic: $148-$341, Handgrade: $350-$421, Premier: $350-$487) 18. Hugo Boss (F | $180-$499) 19. Idrese (B | $270-$340) 20. J. FitzPatrick (A- | $215-$495, Black Collection: $215-$575, Marble Patina: $450-$575, Martel Francois Collab: $450-$575) 21. Jack Erwin (C- | $158-$248) 22. Jay Butler (B- | $209, Ostrich: $599, Alligator: $899) 23. Johnston & Murphy (F | Dress Classics: $119-$295, Formal: $145-$325) 24. Joseph Cheaney (B- | $407-$869, City: $432-$482, Classic: $407-$657, Contemporary: $557, Country & Leisure: $482-$594, Imperial: $744-$844, Veldtschoen: $557-$657) 25. Loake (C | 1880 Classic $281-$499, 1880 Country: $332-$413, Professional: $206-$332, Design: $238-$306, Lifestyle: $163-$263) 26. Löf & Tung (Unranked | $296-$520) 27. Magnanni(D+ | Bologna Construction: $399-$495, Formal: $450-$565, Artesano: $575, Exotic: $800+) 28. Meermin (Classic Collection: B- | $195-$420, Linea Maestro: A- | $310-$420) 29. Moral Code (D+ | $129-$169) 30. Morjas (Unranked | $195-$350) 31. Myrqvist (Unranked | $199-$329) 32. Oliver Cabell (Unranked | Penny Loafers: $249-$332, Ellis Loafer: $215-$330) 33. Paul Evans NY (C- | Oxfords & Monk Straps: $450-$600, Loafers $295-$450) 34. Russell & Bromley (D- | $281-$407) 35. Scarosso (C+ | $165-$390) 36. Septième Largeur (B+ | Oxfords, Derbies, Monks: $325, Loafers: $193-$325, Patina Line: $380-$457) 37. Henry Stevens/Shoepassion (C+ | $199-$349) 38. Skolyx (Unranked | $202-$388) 39. Strange Island (D- | $180-$400) 40. Suitsupply (C- | $249-$329) 41. Taft (D | $275-$325) 42. Thursday Boot Co. (Unranked | Dress Shoes: $145-$235) 43. TLB Mallorca (A- | $354-$396, Artista: $404-$451, Comfort: $270, Cordovan: $659) 44. Undandy (C- | $317-$329) 45. Velasca (C+ | $330-$420, Cordovan: $670) 46. Yanko (B- | $168-$242) 47. Yearn (Unranked | $480) Outfit Rundown

Among our favorite topics are classic dress shoes, and we even covered the best dress shoes for under $300. We also had a ranking for best men’s dress shoes above $500, and many of our readers have told us, “Hey, we wanted to see something in a lower pricing bracket.” So, we’ll be passing judgment as we rank the best (and worst!) brand of men’s dress shoes in the range of $200 to $500.

Table of Contents

  1. How We’ll Rank The Brands
  2. Sponsored by a Watch Brand (Not by a Shoe Brand!)
  3. Rankings – 1. Ace Marks (B- | $259-$350, Tramonto Patina: $425)
  4. 2. Allen Edmonds (C | ($195-$424, Cordovan: $700+)
  5. 3. Armin Oehler (C | $495)
  6. 4. Aurélien (B | $270-$535)
  7. 5. Barker (C- | London: $395-$455, BOEB: $485-$570)
  8. 6. Beckett Simonon (D | $219)
  9. 7. Bridlen (B+ | $243-$297, Blake: $88-$115, Unlined: $109-$243, Slip-On: $109-$303, Easy Goodyear: $194, Founders: $303)
  10. 8. Bruno Magli (C- | $199-$675, Collezione: $550-$800)
  11. 9. Carlos Santos (B+ | $295-$380)
  12. 10. Carmina (B | $395-$685, Cordovan: $800+, Exotics: $1000+)
  13. 11. Charles Tyrwhitt (C- | $199-$349)
  14. 12. CNES (A- | $142-$423, Cordovan: $750+, Exotics: $1500+)
  15. 13. Cobbler Union (B | Goodyear Lite: $360-$450, Goodyear-Welted: $385-$475)
  16. 14. Cole Haan (F | $159-$400)
  17. 15. Florsheim (D- | $115-$250)
  18. 16. Grant Stone (B | $282-$340)
  19. 17. Herring (C+ | Classic: $148-$341, Handgrade: $350-$421, Premier: $350-$487)
  20. 18. Hugo Boss (F | $180-$499)
  21. 19. Idrese (B | $270-$340)
  22. 20. J. FitzPatrick (A- | $215-$495, Black Collection: $215-$575, Marble Patina: $450-$575, Martel Francois Collab: $450-$575)
  23. 21. Jack Erwin (C- | $158-$248)
  24. 22. Jay Butler (B- | $209, Ostrich: $599, Alligator: $899)
  25. 25. Loake (C | 1880 Classic $281-$499, 1880 Country: $332-$413, Professional: $206-$332, Design: $238-$306, Lifestyle: $163-$263)
  26. 27. Magnanni(D+ | Bologna Construction: $399-$495, Formal: $450-$565, Artesano: $575, Exotic: $800+)
  27. 28. Meermin (Classic Collection: B- | $195-$420, Linea Maestro: A- | $310-$420)
  28. 29. Moral Code (D+ | $129-$169)
  29. 30. Morjas (Unranked | $195-$350)
  30. 31. Myrqvist (Unranked | $199-$329)
  31. 32. Oliver Cabell (Unranked | Penny Loafers: $249-$332, Ellis Loafer: $215-$330)
  32. 35. Scarosso (C+ | $165-$390)
  33. 36. Septième Largeur (B+ | Oxfords, Derbies, Monks: $325, Loafers: $193-$325, Patina Line: $380-$457)
  34. 37. Henry Stevens/Shoepassion (C+ | $199-$349)
  35. 38. Skolyx (Unranked | $202-$388)
  36. 39. Strange Island (D- | $180-$400)
  37. 40. Suitsupply (C- | $249-$329)
  38. 41. Taft (D | $275-$325)
  39. 42. Thursday Boot Co. (Unranked | Dress Shoes: $145-$235)
  40. 43. TLB Mallorca (A- | $354-$396, Artista: $404-$451, Comfort: $270, Cordovan: $659)
  41. 44. Undandy (C- | $317-$329)
  42. 45. Velasca (C+ | $330-$420, Cordovan: $670)
  43. 46. Yanko (B- | $168-$242)
  44. 47. Yearn (Unranked | $480)
  45. Outfit Rundown

How We’ll Rank The Brands

Our rankings come from the combined experience of the members here at Gentleman’s Gazette. So, yes, everything is subjective, but it’s backed by years of experience in the field. We rank the shoes based on the overall style, quality, workmanship, and price. Some brands have distinct product lines; some are more expensive than others. But, for our ranking, we look at the price range of two to five hundred dollars.

We’re not talking about vintage shoes; we’re talking about shoes you can buy today. We look at the retail price, not the used or secondary market. And just like in our other posts, we’ll use a school grading system with A being the top choice and F the worst.

It’s very important to say that no shoe brand paid us to say anything here, so everything we say about shoes – our ranking or grades – is 100% our own, unfiltered opinion.

We have a sponsor for today’s post, though, and that is the German watch brand, Nomos Glashütte. When Nomos approached us about a collab, we didn’t have to think twice and said, “Of course!”

In case you’re not familiar with the brand, Nomos Glashütte is the creator of the iconic Tangente Watch. “Tangente” is German for “tangent,” and Nomos sent us the Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold in a 39-millimeter case. We reviewed the watch a few years back… And that’s tangentially related to shoes in the way of cordovan leather because their strap uses the same Horween cordovan leather that many renowned cordovan shoemakers use.

As we said before, in our 18 Must-Haves for Gentleman post, a pair of black Oxfords and a serious watch are must-haves. I mean, just look at it – that classic coin shape will never go out of style. Also, the linear typography paired with the very slim DUW3001 automatic movement makes this watch very versatile. If you upgrade from the stainless steel back to a sapphire crystal back, you can even see the automatic movement in action, which is oddly satisfying to watch.

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (3)

Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold

The Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold will always feel right at home, no matter what wardrobe combination you go for.

No matter if you wear it for a Black Tie and with a tuxedo, with a suit for a business event, or with a more casual combination, the Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold will always feel right at home. And with a black leather strap, and silver and blue-gold color scheme, you can even pair it with a more casual outfit.

Obviously, you never want to take a watch with a leather strap for a swim, but it’s very comfortable to know that you could if you had to. Frankly, though, all specs aside, personally, my favorite feature of this watch is the blue-gold dial.

To learn more about the Nomos watch lineup, check out their website.

Rankings – 1. Ace Marks (B- | $259-$350, Tramonto Patina: $425)

First up, we have Ace Marks. They have overall classic, nice-fitting, pleasing lasts at a fair price point. Their shoes are like rapid constructions, which means they don’t have a long break-in period, but they’re also a little less comfortable to walk in all day.

Overall, we rank them a B-, which is maybe slightly different in our previous post, just because we’ve had more exposure to other brands. There are more competitors now. And Eb noted some foot pain, and so did I when I walked in for a long amount of time.

2. Allen Edmonds (C | ($195-$424, Cordovan: $700+)

Allen Edmonds, a staple American men’s dress shoe brand that recently got acquired and upped their pricing; is now running more sales. If you ask me, it’s more of a peasant hatchery.

So, the big question: did the quality change? A lot of people say there are more seconds, and quality control isn’t high. We cut open four shoes in our guide to determine if something really changed.

Cutting Apart 50 Years of Allen Edmonds Shoes (Value Review)

Read HERE

While I appreciate this brand for often being the first quality dress shoe a man buys, I’m personally not in love with their last. I find them a bit chunky.

As a team, we grade them as a C.

3. Armin Oehler (C | $495)

Armin Oehler is an American shoe brand founded by a German native, whose family has deep roots in the leather business. Because of that, all their leathers are top-notch, high-quality calf letters, not less expensive cowhide.

I have a pair of Chukka boots from them in a very nice, waterproof suede. It’s Goodyear welted. It has an attractive last, and the leather is the best suede I’ve probably had so far. My pair was Goodyear welted in Asia; not sure where they produce these days.

At the price point, the competition is very steep, so I’d rank them as C.

4. Aurélien (B | $270-$535)

Aurélien is an interesting Dutch brand that offers boots, soft suede loafers, and driving mocs. Frankly, I haven’t worn it myself, but Nathan, our team, has, and he’s a connoisseur of small, quality-focused, micro brands.

At first glance, their prices seem high for soft suede loafers, but at a closer look, they look very similar to the Loro Piana Summer Walks, which cost over a thousand dollars. What’s nice is that they offer lots of color choices.

Nathan grades it as a B, and he’s generally a bit more generous than I am.

5. Barker (C- | London: $395-$455, BOEB: $485-$570)

Barker is a British manufacturer of Goodyear-welted shoes, which is similar in make and quality to Loake. Overall, they’re an okay starter men’s dress shoe. They also have a handcrafted line, which is more expensive. But, at that price point, you’re probably better off with going with different brands such as Carmina or J. Fitzpatrick. Maybe Cheaney and, of course, a few others if you stay tuned.

Overall, we grade them at a C-.

6. Beckett Simonon (D | $219)

Next up is Beckett Simonon, an interesting brand that was started a few years back in Colombia, then they produced in Portugal. Now, I think they’re back in Colombia. The shoes are Goodyear-welted, and the leathers are a bit stiffer. I think they’re tanned in South America. They don’t feel like the highest-grade European calf leathers.

In line with that, we’ve noticed color inconsistencies, where the left shoe looks slightly different than the right shoe. Or, for example, the tongue is much darker than the uppers. On an Oxford, that’s visible and looks weird. Also, there’s a long wait for delivery because the cost is so low. They produce them in batches.

Overall, the leather feels inferior. Preston had some salt blooming on his shoes that he couldn’t remove, despite trying it in multiple different ways. So, he just threw his shoes out.

Ever since we made the last video, I never put on my shoes a single time because they’re just not comfortable, and I have so many other better options. Mine and Preston’s grade is a D.

7. Bridlen (B+ | $243-$297, Blake: $88-$115, Unlined: $109-$243, Slip-On: $109-$303, Easy Goodyear: $194, Founders: $303)

Bridlen is an interesting brand from Japan. On their website, they claimed they were started in ’86 as an online store. I doubt that. Maybe something got lost in translation there because, if there’s one thing I know, it’s that Japanese typically have very high attention to detail, and that’s obvious in their dress shoes.

Their shoes are Goodyear welted. They have interesting styles, attractive lasts, and overall, very pleasant shoes. The leathers are good and the quality-to-price ratio is excellent.

As a consumer, you might ask, “How is it possible that a shoe this good costs so little money?” Well, that’s really manufacturing. The shoes are made in India, but hey, good things can be produced anywhere in the world.

This is just a good value shoe for your money, and our grade is a B+. If you just look at the value, you’re more like A, A-.

8. Bruno Magli (C- | $199-$675, Collezione: $550-$800)

Bruno Magli are thoroughly middle-of-the-road shoes. They have the combination sole, which is a hallmark of not high-end shoes. The lasts are neither clunky nor refined. The materials are decent. And Jack really likes them because their last fits him well. Eb had issues with squeaking soles and unresponsive customer service.

The overall grade is C-.

9. Carlos Santos (B+ | $295-$380)

Carlos Santos – or “Car-los San-tosh” as they say in Portugal, where they’re made – produces quality, Goodyear-welted shoes made of European calf leathers. They’re a little more expensive than, let’s say, Allen Edmonds, but they’re definitely worth it in our book.

They also do collaborations with other brands like Herring, for example. I visited their factory and brought home a pair of dark olive green derbies on an elegant last. They also have a hand grade line, which is slightly more expensive, but still within our price range, and definitely worth it.

Our overall grade is B+, maybe even a little better.

10. Carmina (B | $395-$685, Cordovan: $800+, Exotics: $1000+)

Carmina has a nice shoe brand, and we have an in-depth Is It Worth It? video out on our channel. In a nutshell, they offer lots of styles of Goodyear-welted shoes made in Mallorca by a family-run business. I personally visited the factory in Mallorca years ago, and I can vouch for their quality workmanship. Their customer service is subpar.

They’re definitely more on the expensive side, but you get more options in terms of leathers and lasts. We grade them as a B.

11. Charles Tyrwhitt (C- | $199-$349)

Charles Tyrwhitt is known to most people as a purveyor of shirts, and we did a more dedicated post about that.

What to Buy from Charles Tyrwhitt

Read HERE

Jack has a pair with a rubber sole that he wears in the rain. Overall, it’s more in the range of Barker or Loake. The last isn’t anything special; everything is quite safe.

The grade is more of a C-.

12. CNES (A- | $142-$423, Cordovan: $750+, Exotics: $1500+)

CNES is a brand from Singapore that offers not just Goodyear-welted shoes but actually hand-welted shoes at a price that seems mind-bogglingly low. Not only do we have nice lasts, but also unusual styles that you typically find more in a bespoke world, such as butterfly loafers or twist loafers.

Because they’re hand-welted, they’re very comfortable from the start, very little to no break-in, and the leathers they use are very high quality. They have French calfskin, for example. So, hand-welted shoes with a fiddleback waist for $350 to $400. That’s really incredible.

While Nathan graded them as straight A, Preston gave them a B+. But, solely for reasons of fit and, as you know, not all last shoes work with every foot.

They also made a capsule collection with Hugo Jacoment from Parisian Gentleman and Sartorial Talks, so maybe I should try their shoes, too.

13. Cobbler Union (B | Goodyear Lite: $360-$450, Goodyear-Welted: $385-$475)

Cobbler Union is an American brand with a showroom in Atlanta, offering made-in-Spain, Goodyear-welted shoes. They have decently elegant last shapes and quite a range of shoes as they’ve been around for a few years. I really like their interior, which is a nice burgundy with a quilt and some padding. But, sometimes, it colors off on your socks.

When they first appeared in the US, they had much less competition, and it seemed like an awesome buy.

Considering there are other brands like CNES and other options, they’re not as attractive anymore to me. Nathan would rather go with CNES, TLB Mallorca, or J Fitzpatrick. Eb really enjoyed the in-store fitting experience.

I have a pair, and I think that B is an appropriate grade.

14. Cole Haan (F | $159-$400)

Cole Haan is a well-known brand. They do collaborations with Nike, but when it comes to dress shoes, their stuff is just garbage. Nathan even said he wouldn’t wear them if they would be given to him for free. Enough said. The grade is an F.

15. Florsheim (D- | $115-$250)

Florsheim – what an interesting brand with a rich history. The new models are simply trash, and Nathan grades them an F. If you find some vintage models from the 60s, they’re good quality, but that’s not what we’re talking about in this post.

Preston has one old pair from their Comfortech line, and he continues to wear them, just because they are so comfortable. I believe you can go to a cobbler or shoemaker and put in foam inserts with a sock liner in much more elegant shoes and get a similar kind of comfortable feel.

If comfort is the only thing you care about, maybe for $200, it’s something for you. But, for us, grade D-.

16. Grant Stone (B | $282-$340)

Grant Stone is more focused on boots but also offers a basic shoe line. We’ve only had a firsthand experience with their boots, but the construction is the same as on their shoes. The boots have been surprisingly durable and have shown good workmanship. They’re priced lower than comparable American boots, which makes them rather attractive.

Both Chris and Nathan on our team said that the toe box is not very roomy, but they like their boots and rated them a B.

17. Herring (C+ | Classic: $148-$341, Handgrade: $350-$421, Premier: $350-$487)

Herring Shoes started as a shoe store in 1966, selling quality English footwear. Over time, they also created their own private label, which is not manufactured in their own factory, but in other factories and just private labeled. Sometimes, they also have collaborations, such as with Carlos Santos.

I have a pair from them. I think the quality is decent. They’re very value-focused while providing slightly more elegant or modern lasts. Overall, Jack, Nathan, and I all grade them a C+.

18. Hugo Boss (F | $180-$499)

Hugo Boss is simply a hard “no.”You can do a lot better than that. It’s cheap leather, cheap construction, and overpriced, so we grade it as a straight F. See, I told you I’m not biased. Just because it’s German, it doesn’t help at all.

19. Idrese (B | $270-$340)

Idrese is an interesting company in the sense that they offer made-to-order shoes that you can customize as you wish at a price in line with other ready-to-wear shoes.

They’re made in Spain, Goodyear welted on elegant lasts, and our team has experience with the boots, which were all made-to-order. For example, I got a really beautiful custom patina, and I used a hiker-style model, which I think is no longer available. Still, I really appreciated the difference in look. You can also customize your sole, and they’re really flexible on the things that you want. They’re unique to you.

Considering the fair price point, we grade them a B.

20. J. FitzPatrick (A- | $215-$495, Black Collection: $215-$575, Marble Patina: $450-$575, Martel Francois Collab: $450-$575)

J. FitzPatrick is a shoe brand founded by Justin FitzPatrick, who started The Shoe Snob blog; and he has tirelessly put in a lot of effort to educate men about shoes and highlight new brands. For that, I’m really grateful to him.

J. FitzPatrick is his brand of shoes, which are Goodyear welted and made in Spain. He sent me a pair years ago, which was an unusual navy blue Oxfords, kind of saddle shoe with gray suede, and the last fit me phenomenally well. They had this kind of French, elongated toe shape that was rounded.

One thing I really appreciate about J. FitzPatrick is that the shoes are not run-of-the-mill, but they have a special twist. For example, they have the Spokane, which is a quilted, leather Oxford. Another example is the nice marble patina that Justin sent to me.

He sometimes also does collaborations with other patina artists, so you get very special stuff from him, and he also has a made-to-order program, so you can exactly fine-tune what works for you.

J. FitzPatrick has solid value for the money at the retail price, so it gets even better when they’re on sale. I’d say, overall, a B+ for me. Nathan is even more enthusiastic, and would probably rank them an A-.

He loves their boots. Me, too, by the way, but this is a dress shoe video!

21. Jack Erwin (C- | $158-$248)

Jack Erwin is an interesting brand that offers driving mocs in the style of Tod’s without the high price tag. By the way, to check out if Tod’s are worth it, we got a video for you. You can buy them on sale fairly easily, and they’re overall more daring than Loake or Morjas.

Grade: C-.

22. Jay Butler (B- | $209, Ostrich: $599, Alligator: $899)

Jay Butler was founded by Justin Jeffers, who’s a fellow men’s clothing blogger under the name of “Fine Young Gentleman.” These days, he doesn’t blog much anymore, but he still has the shoe brand.

Really the core of Jay Butler is a very value-driven approach to a preppy loafer. What does that mean? Well, you get a true low vamp loafer with a true moccasin construction. The shoes are made in Mexico, either from cowhide, but he also has ostrich and alligator options, but these are outside of the price range.

Nathan calls them the dead ringer for his Gucci loafers without the big price tag. Sadly, my heels are too slim for Jay Butler loafers, but to learn more about Justin and his shoes, check out the interview we did on our channel a few years back.

23. Johnston & Murphy (F | Dress Classics: $119-$295, Formal: $145-$325)

Johnston & Murphy is another one of those shoe brands that’s got a rich history. Some of our team members wore them when they were in high school, and perhaps you did the same! But, today, they’re unfortunately just garbage.

Grade: F.

24. Joseph Cheaney (B- | $407-$869, City: $432-$482, Classic: $407-$657, Contemporary: $557, Country & Leisure: $482-$594, Imperial: $744-$844, Veldtschoen: $557-$657)

Joseph Cheaney is an English brand of Goodyear-welted shoes. I think they used to be under the Church’s umbrella, which was acquired by Prada.

When I was in England the last time, I checked out their store. They have nice, proper English shoes with stiffer leathers and very classic lasts. They’re neither too fashion-forward nor too old school.

In my experience, they fit rather large, so keep that in mind if you order those shoes online.

Jack gives them a B. I, more like a C+, maybe B to C.

25. Loake (C | 1880 Classic $281-$499, 1880 Country: $332-$413, Professional: $206-$332, Design: $238-$306, Lifestyle: $163-$263)

Loake is a UK starter brand for dress shoes, similar to Ellen Edmonds in the US. The 1880s line has nicer leathers, maybe somewhat more elegant last without being super elegant. They also fit a bit on the larger side.

If I would get Loake, I would stick to the 1880s, and I would grade them a C. Jack, Nathan, and Preston also ranked them C or C-.

26. Löf & Tung (Unranked | $296-$520)

The brand Löf & Tung sent a few shoes to our team. They’ve worn them a little bit, but not long enough to truly come up with a proper grade. Nathan says they have decent suede and nice close-channeled stitching.

The shoes go on sale quite often, even though many items are out of stock or have low stock. The last shape is more conservative. The leathers are not super exciting, and you don’t get this flashy patina. They do have options like pebble grain, though.

First impression is more in the B, B- range. We’ll see where they end up once we wear them for a longer time.

27. Magnanni(D+ | Bologna Construction: $399-$495, Formal: $450-$565, Artesano: $575, Exotic: $800+)

Magnanni are shoes that I don’t have any personal experience with. Jack has a pair of loafers, which are among his most worn pairs. They’re Blake-stitched. The leather is nice and soft. They have bolder styling, unique patinas, and very thin soles.

Nathan said the leather quality is not the best; hence, they need the heavy patina. They’re on sale all the time, but their retail price is a bit high.

Jack calls them a D+. Nathan, a D to F at full price, or C- to D+ on sale.

28. Meermin (Classic Collection: B- | $195-$420, Linea Maestro: A- | $310-$420)

Meermin is an interesting company because it was founded on its own by members of the Albaladejo family, which also owns Carmina. So, they use their Spanish shoemaking know-how and make the shoes in China. Because of that, they have a better value proposition.

If you look at their site, they advertise their radical values. They have their main line at the lower price point; they have the Linea Maestro, which is more expensive, hand welted, and much better; and they have cordovan shoes. They have non-Horween cordovan, which is less expensive, and Horween cordovan, which is more expensive.

The mainline shoes take quite a while to break in. They’re harder with stiffer leathers. Personally, I really like their Linea Maestro. The last fits me well. They’re hand welted. The leather in European calf hides are great. You just don’t get a large range of shoe styles and colors.

Their main line is more a C+ to B-. Their Linea Maestro is maybe an A to B. Previously, we’ve probably graded them an A-. Now, there’s more competition out there.

29. Moral Code (D+ | $129-$169)

Moral Code offers inexpensive, Goodyear-welted shoes. My loafer is still super stiff, so I’ve just stopped wearing them because I don’t like to break them in, and the top upper leather is also rather stiff and wrinkly. At this price point, you can just see that they had to use second or third-grade leather.

Back then, I gave them a three and a half out of five. Today, I would rather rank them D+, maybe C to D.

30. Morjas (Unranked | $195-$350)

Morjas is a Swedish brand. I think they’re more in the Allen Edmonds territory. They sent me a pair of Opera pumps, but they didn’t fit me at all. My heel just slipped out of them. Nathan tried to get a pair from them; also, the sizing didn’t quite work out there. So, it seems like getting the sizing right there is half the battle.

Because of that experience, we can’t really grade them.

31. Myrqvist (Unranked | $199-$329)

Myrqvist is another interesting contender, but sadly, nobody on our team has any experience, so we can’t grade them either.

32. Oliver Cabell (Unranked | Penny Loafers: $249-$332, Ellis Loafer: $215-$330)

Oliver Cabell offers some loafers. Nathan tried their sneakers and quite liked them, and rated them a D, but we don’t know what their actual dress shoe situation is like.

33. Paul Evans NY (C- | Oxfords & Monk Straps: $450-$600, Loafers $295-$450)

Paul Evans NY was one of those brands that really put quite a bit of money into marketing, and you saw them everywhere on YouTube channels and bloggers a few years back.

Made in Italy with Blake rapid construction, they remind me quite a bit of Ace Marks. If you look at the styles of their Oxfords, their last, their patinas, they’re very similar, but Ace Marks comes in at a lower price point. If you want to compare them to other Italian brands, such as Velasca or Scarosso, I would say they’re a bit more fashion-forward.

When they started, not many companies were offering these nice, hand-finished patinas, and I think that’s where they leaned on heavily. Today, you can more easily get this kind of a leather look. I think, price-wise, you can get better stuff.

I would say the overall grade is about C, C-, or maybe D+ if you consider their pricing.

Nathan bought a pair of penny loafers from them, but he found them to be uncomfortable even though they were Blake-stitched, and he sold them and had to take a huge loss. But, it’s always the case when you sell your shoes on eBay.

34. Russell & Bromley (D- | $281-$407)

Russell & Bromley are presented as more of a high-quality brand, but Jack believes that they’re more like Hugo Boss territory. There’s a big focus on fashion rather than quality. The showrooms are set out nicely, but the boutique style doesn’t mean that you actually get a quality product.

Grade: D-.

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35. Scarosso (C+ | $165-$390)

Scarosso was rather early to the online shoe game in Germany. They now have a nice range of different more casual styles for men. They’re Blake, made in Italy, a bit more fashion-forward than Velasca, but otherwise, rather similar, in my book.

Overall, the shoes are a lot softer. The heel and toe reinforcements are not like the British ones. I like their woven leather loafers, especially in the summer. Because they’re Blake-stitched, they’re not too comfortable for walking in them all day.

They’ve definitely seen more competition since the last post, where we ranked them a bit more highly. I think, now, they’re more in the C+ range.

36. Septième Largeur (B+ | Oxfords, Derbies, Monks: $325, Loafers: $193-$325, Patina Line: $380-$457)

Septième Largeur is a French brand that I don’t have any personal experience with; however, Nathan does. They have really great photography, a nice website, and good customer service.

They have a broad selection of shoes and styles and are not afraid to be daring. Nathan has a pair of their loafers and really likes their value proposition. He says, in terms of comfort, they’re up there with his Carminas, and the suede is really nice and soft.

So, Nathan grades them a B+.

37. Henry Stevens/Shoepassion (C+ | $199-$349)

Henry Stevens (formerly known as Shoepassion) is an interesting model. It was a German company with Goodyear-welted shoes made in Spain that were sold under the name Shoepassion. They were quite successful, and they acquired Heinrich Dinkelacker, which was a Goodyear-welted shoe company from Hungary.

Today, the Shoepassion name is used just for the umbrella company, and their main line of shoes bears the name Henry Stevens.

Our team got a bunch of Henry Stevens shoes. I still have a few old Shoepassion shoes. The old Shoepassion used to have a wider range of styles, including things like a white, buckskin, full-brogue Oxford. Now, you don’t have that anymore.

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (42)

They’ve definitely turned a bit more fashioned forward, but you can still get all the classics from them. Preston grades Henry Stevens a B. Nathan grades them more C, C+ territory. I would also put my Shoepassions in more of a C territory.

The Dinkelackers have some nice styles, but they’re typically more chunky on Budapester lasts with triple soles. And they’re also outside this post’s price range at $500+, so we’re not grading them here.

38. Skolyx (Unranked | $202-$388)

Skolyx is a website that offers a range of different shoes, including its own branded Skolyx shoes. They sent me a pair of Yonkos, which I’ll talk about later, but I don’t have any personal experience with them.

Preston and Chris like the shoes for their comfort. They’re still in the break-in period, but it’s going rather well. They’re more on the conservative side. They seem to be a rather dependable shoe.

Both like the styling. Preston got the dark brown, brogued Oxford, and Chris got a pebbled green derby.

39. Strange Island (D- | $180-$400)

Strange Island is definitely a more niche, fashion-forward shoe brand. In our old ranking, I graded them a one out of five, which is probably equivalent to a D. Preston ranked number three out of five, which is more of a C. To me, everything feels on the cheaper side, so it’s probably more in the D- territory.

40. Suitsupply (C- | $249-$329)

Suitsupply is, of course, well known for their suits, and we reviewed their suits in a separate guide. It seems to me that the shoe offering is just a part of completing the look and giving people who are not really into clothing an option to be a one-stop shop.

Suitsupply Suits Review: Are They Worth It?

Read HERE

Personally, I’ve never owned any of their shoes, but Nathan and Jack have. Nathan says their leathers aren’t great, but the shoes fit better than their clothing. Why? He believes the shoes fit a wider foot and, because of that, you can fit more people than their suits, which are slim fit. His grade is a C-.

The Suitsupply shoes will be focused more on a casual end, and Jack really hates the Suitsupply experience, where he feels like he’s not a customer, but more of a sales target. Because of that, he grades them from D+ to C-.

41. Taft (D | $275-$325)

When we looked at Taft shoes back in the day, they still had a few classic options. Today, they’ve gone away from that Spectrum completely, and they’re all just fashion-forward. I’d say they’re not horrible in terms of quality and workmanship, but they’re not great either. Definitely a step below Allen Edmonds.

Taft shoes are really meant for people who, first and foremost. care about the bold style of their shoes without breaking the bank. Nathan writes him a D+. Preston rates them a D. I’m right there with them, D to D-.

42. Thursday Boot Co. (Unranked | Dress Shoes: $145-$235)

Thursday Boots is another of those popular companies that put a lot of money into marketing and have a big online presence. They also offer dress shoes, which I think are made in Mexico, but we haven’t tried them or tested them, so we can’t provide any grading, but we’ll change that when we do our boot post.

43. TLB Mallorca (A- | $354-$396, Artista: $404-$451, Comfort: $270, Cordovan: $659)

TLB Mallorca is an interesting brand made in Spain with Goodyear-welted shoes. They have a main collection; a higher-elevated Artista line, which costs a little more; as well as a cordovan collection. They have great attention to detail, which reminds us more of higher-end brands like Gaziano & Girling, for example.

Even though their last looks quite elegant, our entire team liked how comfortable they were. There’s very little price difference between the main line and Artista, so go for the Artista. Also, if you have money for Allen Edmonds, you can buy TLB Mallorca, and you’ll probably be happier with them – at least, everyone on our team would be.

That being said, in the beginning, it may take a few orders until you find the right last and the right fit, but we believe it’ll be worth it. I grade them a B+; Nathan gives them an A; Jack, also B+; Preston, B+ or maybe A-; and Chris, an A-.

44. Undandy (C- | $317-$329)

Undandy shoes stand out from the crowd and are similar to Idrese because they offer made-to-order shoes, so you can customize a shoe at a lower price point. They offer a range of patinas and different leathers. You can also mix them, so you can have loafers in suede and regular leather, which is nice, but I find their last a bit too aggressive. Personally, we had no issues with their customer service, but some of our readers and viewers have. Your mileage may vary.

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I think, because of the last, I don’t like as much, I grade them a C-, and Preston is with me there.

45. Velasca (C+ | $330-$420, Cordovan: $670)

Velasca is an Italian shoe brand that always reminds me of Scarosso. Their Blake is rapid stitched. Their styling is a bit more boring without being chunky. You could also say the rather classic shoes, but their heel and toe caps are softer. The leathers are softer. Because they’re Blake, there’s no break-in period, and they’re kind of comfortable out of the box.

Back in the day, I gave them a 4 out of 5 ranking, and Preston also ranks them a B. I think, considering the competition and their price point, I would rank a more a C+ these days.

46. Yanko (B- | $168-$242)

Yanko is an interesting shoe brand that’s actually also from Mallorca. They’re priced relatively low, and I remember, in the early 2000s, buying a pair of Yanko shoes, which had very thick soles, the Budapesters. The upper leather was very stiff, and I was never able to break them in, and eventually just sold them. So, I was super surprised when I received a pair from Skolyx, and it was actually on a very pleasant last, and it was super comfortable. I liked the styling, I like the details.

I think, at that price point, you get a nice shoe out of nice leather and good styling, so my ranking is B-.

47. Yearn (Unranked | $480)

Last but definitely not least, we have Yearn, which is a brand made in China – more specifically in Chengdu – and I went to that city at one point in time as a tourist, but I didn’t know about the shoes then. I didn’t even know they existed.

Anyhow, those shoes are hand lasted, hand welted, and hand stitched – all under 500 dollars. On top of that, they use European calf skins, and their shoes look amazing. Readers and friends tell us the shoes are comfortable right out of the box, which is not surprising considering they’re hand-welted, not Goodyear welted.

The prices seem super low for what they offer, but, again, cheaper labor costs help to get you to that price point. They also have a made-to-order option for just fifty dollars more.

Sadly, nobody on our team had a chance to try these shoes in person. Because they seem like a strong, grade-A contender, I definitely want to get my hands on them because it seems almost too good to be true.

Obviously, the stigma of “Made in China” equals “inferiority” is no longer true. There’s also the brand Acme, which is another Chinese shoe brand at a higher price point, which also produces stunning stuff, and it’s just great to see that China is now also pumping out such high-quality men’s shoes. Of course, since we haven’t had that firsthand experience, we can’t really give a grade at this point.

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (54)

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a combination that is built around my Nomos Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold watch in 39 millimeters. It consists of a Fort Belvedere prototype blazer in an interesting English kind of hopsack-style cloth. I’m wearing a bold, blue, and white-striped shirt from . The pocket square and boutonniere are both from Fort Belvedere. They’re linen and in the color scheme of blue and white.

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (55)

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (56)

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Black and White

buy this

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (57)

Fort Belvedere

Dark Blue Mini Delphinium Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower

buy this

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (58)

Fort Belvedere

White Linen Pocket Square with Navy X-Stitch

buy this

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (59)

Fort Belvedere

Dark Charcoal Grey Waxed CottonShoelaces

Take a look

The Nomos Tangente has, of course, a nice blue-gold dial, so it harmonizes really well with all the other things in my outfit, including my pinky ring with a blue star sapphire. My pants are from Tom James in a black and white, houndstooth pattern with a two-inch cuff. My socks are black and white, shadow stripes from Fort Belvedere, and I’m pairing them with a black pair of cap-toe Oxfords from Ace Marks.

My fragrance is the Marzocco from Roberto Ugolini, which is a bespoke shoemaker in Italy. So the flacon has a leather label and a horn cap. It contains 20% oils, which makes it an eau de parfum, and it’s very strong and long-lasting. To learn more about this stunning fragrance, take a look here.

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!) | Gentleman's Gazette (2024)
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